Thursday, January 10, 2013

The Bullfrog Blues



Dear Boo and Bubble,

We’ve talked some about your great, great, great grandmother Mamie Peninah Robinson Bryant.  (If you remember in an earlier post, she’s the one who told Bertha to bring the biscuits.)  Mamie set many things in motion that have lasted over six generations now. With eight children and 28 grandchildren, her familial tentacles reach far and wide even  today.  The tap root of our family tree, her legacy remains legendary.

Of the many treasures Mamie endowed to her extended clan, none was more significant than The Bullfrog Blues.  This very special place provided the venue for the making of countless memories long after she departed this earth.  Until the late 1960’s, it served as a gathering spot for brothers, sisters, aunts, uncles, and cousins of all delineations.   

The Blues (as we affectionately called it) was a wood-hewn cabin that sat on the banks of the South Saluda River just below Table Rock reservoir about an hour north of Greenville.  When Mamie bought the property before the Great Depression, it originally served as her summer retreat.  Although it was in the foothills and not the high mountains, the location nonetheless offered a cool respite from the July and August heat in Greenville. 

To call The Blues rustic would be a compliment.  Rudimentary fits better.  Its floor plan consisted of four rooms – one large living space filled with multiple sets of bunk beds, two smaller bedrooms off of that, and a kitchen in the back connected to the main body of the house by a screened-in porch.  There was no electricity.  All illumination came from kerosene lanterns.  There was no plumbing.  The accommodation to bodily functions lay with a one-hole outhouse dubbed allegorically Little Egypt because of the 100-foot trek one had to make down a foot path to its moss-covered niche on the river’s edge.

The cast iron kitchen stove had a firebox which required a constant stash of wood once it caught flame.  A metal tong lifted the burners so that coals could be evenly distributed underneath. And the ice box was just that – a white ceramic box with several shelves kept cold with a block of ice.

The huge covered front porch served as the gathering area. Numbers of rocking chairs rested lazily underneath the extended roof.  The view from the porch looked out across a sandy stretch to the South Saluda where the river made a sharp bend to the left exposing two large rocks.

As to the name Bullfrog Blues - that came about by the fact that in the evening after the sun set, the bullfrogs began their bellowing croaks, louder and louder until it became like some woeful orchestrated piece of music.  The song was sad, full of blues.  Sitting on the porch, rocking to this nightly ritual became one of the allures of the place.

Times are so different now it will be hard for you to understand just how exhilarating a trip to The Blues could be for a child.  We had no electronics to consume our attention or numb us to our surroundings.  Adventures weren’t carried out in some virtual world with an avatar.  Our entertainment came from romps around the yard on imaginary horses with imaginary friends executing some spirited plot hatched in our heads about the world around us.  In my youth, The Blues played a major role in defining those attributes of fun and family that sustain me now.

When I recall The Blues, I am reminded of so many simple pleasures.  On the way up we stopped at the ice house in the town of Travelers Rest (isn’t that a pleasant sounding name) to buy the 25 pound block of ice for the icebox that would last us for a weekend. 

Somewhere on the side of the road, we found a produce stand where we bought fresh corn, tomatoes and most importantly watermelons.  There was a frigid stream running behind The Blues and as soon as we had unloaded the car, we carried the watermelons out and nestled them into the cold water where they stayed overnight.  The next afternoon, we donned our bathing suits and took the watermelons down to the big rock in the crook of the river and split them open.  All of the children ate the sweet, red fruit with abandon, letting the sticky juice slide down the chin onto the neck and chest until they became so gummy the only solution was a purposeful leap into the chilly water of the Saluda (which could really take your breath away on that first jump). 

Across the yard from the front porch of The Blues stood a tall hardwood tree rooted in the bank of the river.  One stalwart, large branch extended out over the flowing green water almost to the center.   A thick rope with a holding knot at the bottom hung from the branch far enough out that it took a long stick to reach.  The natural erosion under the tree exposed a root system that looked like steps going up the bank.  We could take our pick as to which step might be our start as we grabbed the rope and swung out over the water.  There was safety in the lower ones – you wouldn’t go out as far and if you decided not to drop, you could come back to the bank.  The higher steps demanded more commitment.  You better drop off at the apex of the outward reach of the rope or you would come crashing back into the tree.  Over the years, there were many a dare made under that tree.

At night, The Blues could become a scary place to little ones.  The flickering kerosene lamps exaggerated shadows as they were cast against the walls.  A howling wind could conjure all sorts of creaks and frightful noises in the wooden walls.  It became the perfect setting for Great Granddaddy Schaefer to tell the tales of “Hooker,” a dangerous madman supposedly roaming the mountains in search of the person who cut off his hand, leaving him to wear a hook.  Many a night, we huddled in the bunk beds of the great room wrapped in blankets as the story unfolded, our eyes widening to a climax that always culminated in an ominous scratch on the screen of one of the windows.  The collective scream was deafening.  I never knew for sure who really was outside at that window.

I remember waking to the smell of bacon sizzling in the cast iron skillet on the wood burning stove.  I remember endless games of Up Jinks at the picnic table on the screened porch.  I remember bon fires in the front yard cooking marshmallows on wire coat hangers and singing “Turnip Greens,” “Skinnemarenk Da Dink Da Dink,” and “John Jacob Jinker Heimer Schmidt” – DAH-DAH-DAH-DAH-DAH-DAH-DAH-DAH! I remember catching lightening bugs in Mason jars.  I remember being apprehensive about my first visits to Little Egypt and learning to use a “thunder mug” in order to avoid trips in the middle of the night.

Yes, without actually having The Blues for you to experience, I don’t know if you can appreciate its influence on me.  I think Mamie Peninah knew what a special place it was and she gave it to her family as a gift to keep us together no matter how far flung we became.  In the next few posts, I’ll share some more stories about The Bullfrog Blues.  Who knows…maybe someday we’ll be lucky enough to find us such a spot

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